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:: RECIPE ORIGIN Based on recipe provided by brewer on the following recipe: http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2721&start=30 21A-IPA Batch size: 12bbls pre-boil wort amount: 450 gallons end of boil amount: 410 gallons Malt: Rahr 2-row Pale Malt 82% Crisp Munich Malt 12% Crisp Caramalt 6% Hops: (all T-45 hop pellets) Bittering: Warrior (added at beginning of boil) Flavor: Centennial (added at 70 minutes into boil) Whirlpool: Cascade/Tomahawk (added at end of boil) I use 2lbs of each hop in 410 gallons of wort at the end of of boil. Dry Hops: for my batch size I use the following hops and amounts. Cascade 5lbs ( 45%), Amarillo 2lbs (18%), Styrian Goldings 2lbs (18%), Simcoe 2lbs (18%) 75 IBUs Water Treatment: The water in San Francisco is some of the best brewing water and is relatively soft. I add Calcium Sulfate to help showcase the hops. Yeast: WLP001 aggressively pitched. Filtration: DE Filter OG: 17.2 degrees Plato FG ~3.9 degrees Plato ABV ~7.2% Mash Temp: 159F 90 minute boil Notes: My philosophy on this IPA is that your first sensory experience with this beer after looking at it is the sense of smell. This is why the dry hopping is fairly aggressive, which sets you up for the taste sensation. For as aggressive as this beer is hopped it actually is not too bitter and this is partly achieved by the high mash temperature. I feel a good IPA is just not about bitterness, but about the supporting malt backbone. Some IPAs are all bitterness and rather two dimensional I really try and make a multi-dimensional beer. Dry hops are added at fermentation temperature (68F) when the beer is about 1/2 plato point before terminal gravity and it is then capped. The slight yeast activity aids in keeping the hops in suspension. Capping it avoids driving the hop volatiles off with the fermentation activity, thereby keeping the aroma in the beer. This beer is also filtered. Removing the yeast to me is important and gives the beer a clean and less astringent flavor. One other thing on the dry hopping; This past summer i experimented with dry hopping at lower temperatures. I added the Cascade, Styrian Golding hops and Amarillo at fermentation temp (68F) and then after a 3-4 days lowered it to 50F and then added to the Simcoe. The idea behind this is to gain more of the vegative flavor of the hops, thereby mimicking whole flower dry hopping. I had mixed results. Ideally this would be a three week beer from kettle to glass, but because of tank space utlilization, typically it ends up being a two week beer. Also, we allow this beer to sit for 4 to 5 days at 32F before filtering, which aids in clarification and greater yield in the bright tank. I hope that is everything. PM if you have any questions. ShaunO :: SUBSTITUTIONS / CHANGES :: STARTER Yeast packaging date: ##/##/## ##/##/## - Made a ## liter starter (used Mr. Malty - http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html) (used YeastCalc http://www.yeastcalc.com/). :: BREW DAY ##/##/## MASH - First run = ## gals collected; ## brix; 1.0## S1 = sparged with ## gals of ###F; # min steep; total vol collected = ## gals Begin of run = ## brix; 1.0## S2 = sparged with ## gals of ###F; # min steep; total vol collected = ## gals Begin of run = ## brix; 1.0## Final pre-boil vol = ## gals; ## brix; 1.0## Cooled ## gals down under 140F in # mins.; down to 68F in # mins Final volume = ## gals OG = 1## brix; 1.0## :: FERMENTATION Set Johnson Control to: ##F; Internal strip reading: ##F - Fermentation started on: ##/##/##, # days after pitching Internal strip reading: ##F; Carboy strip reading: ##F - Fermentation peaked on: ##/##/##, # days after pitching Internal strip reading: ##F; Carboy strip reading: ##F - Fermentation ended on: ##/##/##, # days after pitching Internal strip reading: ##F; Carboy strip reading: ##F FG = 1.0## :: RACK TO 2NDRY AND/OR DRY HOP :: BOTTLE / KEGGING Force Carb Yes/No PSI Setting: ## :: LESSONS LEARNED