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Water games Total water : 16.5 gal Heat 14.5 gal to 190 Remove 6.5 gal sparge water and store Add 2 gal of 70 cold water and this should get to strike temp of 166 to achieve 155F mash https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/mixing-fluids-temperature-mass-d_1785.html -------------- New Directions https://www.kegland.com.au/blog/post/how-to-brew-hazy-ipas-%E2%80%93-a-beginners-guide-to-homebrewing-neipa 30min boil Use of "survivable hops" in whirlpool- Idaho 7, Mosaic https://tools.yakimachief.com/docs/Survivable-Compounds-Poster.pdf Use experimental hops HBC 586 and 610- they are used in one of Stoneface Brewery's signature NEPIAs *610 used in dryhop since it is not listed as survivable Water chemistry- 100:100 sulfate:chloride It doesn't really matter too much what initial chemistry is given how much organic matter is going into the beer. https://thirdleapbrew.com/technical/ward-labs-mineral-analysis-of-tree-house-julius/ -------------- Original inspirational recipe https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/northeast-style-ipa.568046/page-146#post-8203827 GRAIN BILL: I have settled in around 1.060 OG. I think this makes a perfect compromise between getting into DIPA range (having beers that are just too high in abv. for my preference) and going too far toward 1.050 where the beer may become too much of a session IPA for some peoples preferences. *If you want a bigger IPA, I would just keep the ratios of grain and increase the amounts to hit a higher OG. I would leave the hops the same the first time as far as amounts, and then adjust if you feel you want more bitterness, dry hop etc. on subsequent batches. Approximate percent of grain bill and the actual amt. I use for 6.5 gallons @ 84% mash efficiency (your efficiency may vary so use the percentages) 37.5% Rahr 2 Row (5 lbs) 37.5% Golden Promise (or similar like Pearl, Maris Otter) (5 lbs) 7.5% Flaked Oats (1 lb) 7.5% Flaked Barley 1 lb) 7.5 % Weyerman Wheat (1 lb) 2.5% Honey Malt (1/4 lb) 60 minute mash @152-155) *Note on grain. Using all 2 Row for Base is probably fine. Using any combination of flaked Oats/Wheat/Barley to get into the 20% range is probably fine too. In fact, based on others input, and based on my own experience – I think you could do all kinds of things with the grain bill and be fine, including dropping a bunch of the flaked, using whatever you want for base malt etc. The two things I do think are good for this beer in regard to grain bill: 1.) Keep it light and simple….. 3-5 SRM. Not much in the way of caramel/crystal malts, etc. 2.) I do like the addition of small amount of Honey Malt and recommend keeping it. HOPS: (I have gone to 1 whirlpool/flameout addition and 1 dry hop) **60 Min. = .5 oz Warrior (Or, none at all if you want to lay off bittering addition). **Flameout/whirlpool = Chill to 160 or below and add 6 ounces of Hops. I generally go with 3 ounces of Citra, 2 ounces Mosaic, 1 ounce of Galaxy – but there are plenty of other combinations (listed later on). I continue chilling at this point now…. No real “hop stand” at a particular temperature. I just like to get the temperature down to 160 or so, get the hops in, and continue chilling. It still takes 20-30 minutes from this point to going into fermenter anyway. Stir up/whirlpool wort every 5 minutes or so to get hops in suspension. Chill to 62-65 and let hops settle out as much as possible (just let it sit for 10minutes or so after it is chilled). Transfer wort to fermenter. I tend to leave behind .75 gallons of trub and hops (this is why I brew 6.5 gallon batch). **Dry Hop – I now do a single, 6 ounce dry hop around day 2-3. Hops go in loose and they stay in for duration of fermentation. My standard recipe dry hop is 3 ounces of citra, 2 ounces Mosaic, 1 ounce of Galaxy. I no longer do multiple dry hops. I no longer use dry hop keg….. depending on your system, that might be something you still want to do. However, I have found no difference with a single flameout addition and a single dry hop – plus it is way easier. WATER PROFILE: There are multiple directions to go here. I have kind of settled in with a Sulfate:Chloride of around 120:120. Honestly, I think you could put either number between 75-150 and make a fine beer. It is likely just personal preference at some point if you are in those ranges. I think most people tend to go higher on the Chloride and lower on the sulfate. Using B'run Water Ca = 105 Mg = 8 Na = 8 Sulfate = 120 Chloride = 122 Bicarbonate = 16 FERMENTATION: Yeast - Conan(vermont IPA) or 1318 are probably the two “go-to” yeasts for this. *** I have also found that 1272 works great. I think there are many yeasts that would likely do just fine in beers like this. 1056, 1450, 007…. I would not be afraid to try other yeasts. People have played around with quite a few different yeasts, and I think people have been at least satisfied with almost any yeast they tried for the most part. But, I think 1318 and Conan are going to give you the most authentic NE IPA. I tend to start fermentation off around 64 at let it free rise to 66-68 degrees through the first 3 days or so of fermentation. At that point, I like to move it somewhere that it can finish off in the 68-70-72 range. OTHER THOUGHTS/NOTES: I keep almost everything the same in brewing IPA's to this style. However, I do mix up the hops. I always bitter with warrior (Columbus on occasion), and always use 2 x 6 ounce additions – one at flameout/whirlpool and one for Dry Hop ....... but, not always the same hops. Some other options for hops that I have liked: · Equal parts Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy · Equal parts Citra/Mosaic or Citra/Galaxy · 100% Citra · 1-2 ounce Galaxy: 4-5 ounce Citra · Centennial:Simcoe:Amarillo 1: 2.5: 2.5 · Sub in Simcoe for Galaxy · Other hops that can be used with success: Vic Secret, Eureka, Azacca, Columbus, Amarillo, Simcoe, and others I am sure….. I find the fruity/tropical hops work better than some of the classic piney/west coast IPA hops. At the end of the day I still find it very hard to beat Citra:Mosaic:Galaxy combos.