Augustiner Lagerbier Helles 9-25-16

All Grain Recipe

Submitted By: Brewdog (Shared)
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Brewer: Kevin and Dave
Batch Size: 10.50 galStyle: Munich Helles ( 1D)
Boil Size: 13.33 galStyle Guide: BJCP 2008
Color: 4.4 SRMEquipment: Brewdog's 10 Gallon SS Gear
Bitterness: 19.2 IBUsBoil Time: 90 min
Est OG: 1.051 (12.5° P)Mash Profile: Single Infusion, Medium Body, No Mash Out
Est FG: 1.012 SG (3.1° P)Fermentation: Lager, Three Stage
ABV: 5.1%Taste Rating: 35.0

Amount Name Type #
1.00 tsp Lactic Acid (Mash 60 min) Misc 1
15 lbs Pilsner Malt (Avangard) (1.7 SRM) Grain 2
1 lbs Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 3
1 lbs Munich Dark (Avangard) (15.0 SRM) Grain 4
8.00 oz Melanoiden Malt (20.0 SRM) Grain 5
1.48 oz Hallertauer [7.0%] - Boil 60 min Hops 6
2.00 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 15 min) Misc 7
1.00 tsp Yeast Nutrient (Boil 10 min) Misc 8
2.0 pkgs Pilsner Lager (White Labs #WLP800) Yeast 9
2.0 pkgs SafLager West European Lager (DCL/Fermentis #S-23) Yeast 10

Taste Notes

Brewed again on 9-25-16 Brewing again on 1-24-16. Thanks to Joe Dragon again for the recipe. 4-28-16. Excellent beer!! All gone. Recipe Type: All Grain Yeast: White Labs 838 Yeast Starter: Yes-2 liter Original Gravity: 1.051 Final Gravity: 1.012 IBU: 16 Boiling Time (Minutes): 90 Color: 3.9 Primary Fermentation: 7 Days @ 51* F Additional Fermentation: 14 Days @ 65* F Secondary Fermentation: 30 Days @ 39* F Aged: Kegged, chilled, and Carb'd for one week = 7 days @ 39* Now this is a little different: Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 7 days at 51 degrees Additional Fermentation: Diacetal rest after one week up to 65 degrees for 14 days Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 30 days at 39 degrees Yes, you are in a giant beer tent in Munich!!!!


9-25-16 Mashed in @ 152F for 60 minutes. 75 minute sparge. PBG 1.044. 90 minute boil. OG 1.054. I’m using Wyeast Check Pilsner and WL Pilsner yeast on my 1/2. 3L starter Dave is using S-23. No Starter. Cooled wort down to 55F and into ferm chamber at 53F. 10-2-16 Started ramping up for D-Rest. Still lots of Krausen in mine. Didn’t look insde Daves bucket. 1-24-16 Mashed in at 154F for 90 minutes. 90 minute sparge. 75 minute boil. All went well. Hit the numbers right on. Used yeast cake from Alaskan Summer Lager. Perking away at 50 F in the morning. 2-3-16 Started ramping up for D-rest. 2-7-16 Ramping back down to 50 F. 2-12-16 Ramping down to lager for a few weeks, hum de dum dum dum.. 4-3-16 Kegging 4-7-16 Sampled. Great so far. 4-11-16 Almost clear. Very tastey again!! 2011 1st Place HBT- Light lager- Augustiner Lagerbier Hell - Voted the best Helles on HBT. Proper yeast pitchig rates are critical for kicking off a 50* F fermentation. Be sure to use a starter with plenty of yeast, twice as much as normal. Best practice is to pitch at or just below the desired fermentation temperature. Per Brad Smith’s Podcast: The diacytl rest in stage 2 is used at the higher temperature on the same yeast cake (do not rack it) to allow the yeast to burn up all the extra sugars in the beer. This is used to eliminate any off flavors in the beer. Per BREW magazine: If you’re brewing all-grain, you definitely want to to adjust the mash temperature to match the desired body of your beer. Mashing at a higher temperature like 156*F will result in a more malty beer and an increase in body and final gravity. Mashing at a low temperature, 148*F, results in a cleaner, drier finish to the beer with a lower final gravity. When brewing all grain recipes a lower mash temperature produces wort that ferments into a thinner bodied higher alcohol beer and a higher temperature mash produces wort that ferments into fuller bodied sweeter tasting beer. In my fourth year of home brewing I dove into brewing water properties and discovered how they influence the fermentation characteristics of wort. I also learned how brewing water properties can easily be adjusted to significantly improve the flavor, taste, color and quality of all my beers. Who knew? You can further improve the taste of your beer by increasing its malt flavor, while offsetting harsh bitterness, by adding a little Calcium Chloride and Epsom Salt to the same filtered, chlorine and chloride free water. I think of brewing water as a way to brighten the color and taste of my beer, in much the same way a treble control is used to increase the brightness of music during playback. It is true that water with high sulfate content enhances the sharp, bitter aspect of the hops, it’s easily overdone. The result can be a chalky, metallic, or harsh character.. If you have soft water, add some Gypsum or Burton Salts, but start low, targeting half the amount of sulfate typical of Burton water. If you’re really interested in learning more about creating the perfect brewing water profile visit the EZ Water Calculator site and download their free easy to use spreadsheet. It takes all the guesswork out of adjusting your water properties while keeping your additions within safe recommended ranges. There is a whole lot more to water chemistry, but you can begin to get your feet wet using just a few little tweaks and produce some really great beers. Most homebrews benefit from a simple addition of Gypsum & Calcium Cloride. This makes the hops pop! Adding anything else simply makes the beer taste more medicine like. Also, choosing which hops to use in a recipe is a lot simpler than choosing your grain bill. The overall amount of variation in flavor in hops is much less than in grains. When choosing hop varieties for established beer styles, review existing recipes and remember that, in general, classic beer styles are hopped with varieties from their country of origin. In other words, English beer uses English hops. German beers use German hops and so on. This stuff just gets better & better with time. Let it ferment longer than described & you won’t be disappointed. 1st time brewing this the taste got increadible the longer I left it in the kegorator. We ended up hording it. It’s that good!

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